Farwell to Grenada

We left Grenada this week for the southern Grenadines, Carricou to be exact. Even though we had spent the better part of 6 weeks in Grenada it feels like we left many things unexplored. It is truly a magnificent place to hang out. We wonder if we will be back?

The sail up to the Grenadines held a little bit of everything, no more than 30 minutes out we were hit with a squall that kept building until we had 30 knots of wind and a downpour of rain. Quick work was required to get the sails reduced as we had a full main up. We then had little wind and motored up the coast hugging the depth contours, which rewarded us with a Black Fin Tuna. This was the first fish we have caught trolling, Jake and Isabelle had a blast helping us land the fish. As we left the coast of Grenada the trades began to fill giving us between 13-19 knots of wind. We set sail with a double reef in both main and Genoa making good between 30 and 80 degrees averaging 5 knots, depending on the wind flow around the islands. Our course took us right over Kick'em Jenny and undersea volcano that last erupted in 1989.... but still. We were able to make Carricou in one tack, pretty good for the easting we had to do. We are now anchored off of Sandy Island, which as one would guess is very sandy, though only about 100 yards long.

The fishing of late has been outstanding. I finally found a clean reef on the south side of Grenada (they tend to be covered in algae, which I understand is seasonal, e.g. it is warmer now so more algae) and was able to take a nice sized lobster. Then on the sail up in addition to the Black Fin Tuna we also caught a Mahi Mahi, both smallish, but good fish none the less. After we had anchored we cubed the tuna and ate it raw, a fabulous treat.

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Sharks and Wateralls

As we finished our annual maintenance items we have had more free time to play. We went on a hike to the Seven Sisters falls in Grenada, which was steep but well maintained and relatively easy for the kids, who immensely enjoyed the hike. The waterfall and pool at the end was the best we had been to yet, with cool refreshing swimming. One is suppose to be able to see monkeys on the hike, alas we were not so lucky. To get to the falls and back we took the local bus system, with a record for us anyway of 24 people in one 15 foot bus. Yes there was alot of lap sitting going on. This as we careened down the mountain at top speed.

We were also able to get out a do a little spear fishing, though with limited luck. The fish and lobster were all very small. I took a shot at one lobster expecting to have to let this one go as well. I was surprised as it fought vigorously nearly pulling the spear from my hands. I fought with him pushing back into the cave and trying to drive the spear tip deeper. Finally when I thought that I had the spear well buried I began to pull the lobster out. Well it still had significant fight left in him. As I got it closer to the edge of the cave I noticed that the spear tip was clean through the lobster into a grey mass, which turned out to be a 2 foot reef shark. I pulled both out wedging the shark on the coral so the spear exited. The shark gave me an annoyed look and swam off. And of course the lobster was too small so back it went. I think next time I am going to keep the shark.

Another cruiser hosted a dinghy float chili feed. All we had to do was show up and tie our dinghy off and he served chili, well prepared I might add. There were about 15 dinghies that attended all tied and floating together eating, drinking and eventually swimming and splashing. Good fun and kudos to the hosting cruiser, very brave to offer free food to a bunch of poor boat people.

Isabelle has fully taken to swimming without a life jacket, even diving under water and looking around. She is very proud.

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Slow & Hot

We continue to wait out hurricane season in Grenada, shifting anchorages once a week to change the scenery. It does afford a great opportunity to get ahead in the kids schooling, tackle a bunch of boat projects and read, so no complaints. Many cruisers are starting to return and everyone is beginning to feel the itch to be on the move. We are planning on the end of the month, as long as the tropical weather systems remain benign, to start moving north among the islands.

Isabelle has decided to give swimming without her life jacket a shot the last two days. We always let the kids decide when they are comfortable on these type of things. She is doing very well, a natural really, so I suspect she will be off and going pretty quickly.

An unfortunate story, but last week a Hallberg Rassy 53 (so about 13 feet longer than us but otherwise very similar to our boat) went up onto a reef here in southern Grenada. They were on the reef for about 4 hours give or take waiting for the tide (which is not much down here) to give them a little more water. While we did not see it, apparently they used halyards off the top of the mast tied to anchors to heel the boat and provide the leverage to pull her off at high tide. The damage did not sound terrible, maybe a loose keel bolt or two and some damage to the rudder. The boat was anchored next to us and left about 4 in the afternoon, I thought naturally making the run towards Trinidad. Instead they moved about 5 miles along the coast. At that time the sun is to low to see the reefs in the water.

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It was Painful

I developed a swimmers ear infection this past week. It had me curled up in a fetal position nearly in tears. Very painful. Now on antibiotics from the local clinic, which seem to be slowly solving the problem.

We moved about 5 miles along the coast of Grenada to Prickly Bay, mostly to enjoy some new scenery and explore a different part of the island. The water in this bay is cleaner as it is more exposed to the ocean. A couple of boats we have met along the way are in here as well. Everyone just chilling and enjoying Grenada until the end of Hurricane season, which thankfully thus far has not been traumatic.

While Rae Ann schools the kids I am working on and endless list of boat projects, endless because at least two new ones get created each day. It has been fun to explore Grenada as you use the local bus system, which charges about .80/per pax for any distance. The busses stop everywhere and anywhere.

Well time to go put more drops in my ear.

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New Photos

Links have been added for photos from the USVI's and Leeward Islands, enjoy.

Back in the Saddle

We returned to Grenada last week from our six week holiday in the U.S. Yes we took a vacation from our vacation. We had a marvelous time with family and friends. I was able to go fishing in Alaska with my best friend, his brother and father, a first for me but hopefully not last. The four of us brought home 300 pounds of salmon and better stories.

We went camping on Lake Roosevelt with my family, where upon arrival my brother decided to open a box of beer with a knife, instead opening his finger, necessitating a quick run to the hospital for stitches. Apparently the knife is standard issue from Washington State University (WSU) as their most popular major is 'Widdilin'.

We spent a week on Camano island with Rae Ann's family where I collapsed a deck while working the BBQ. I swear the wood was rotten.

I got in several rounds of golf, consistently getting my monies worth by hitting the century+ mark each time. Though the last round with a surprising 98 I won two bets which are yet to be paid.

Needless to say returning to the boat we needed much sleep to recover. The heat in Grenada has required a big adjustment. When we arrived none of the work scheduled on the boat had been completed. Though as it was a bottom job, the yard was able to hustle and complete it with just a one day delay in our launch. It also gave me a chance to complete a number of projects in the yard, and take advantage of the air conditioning and cold shower in our hotel to cool off.

We were back in the water on Wednesday afternoon in a rather lumpy St. Davids bay. Rae Ann was on to sea sickness remedies within 10 minutes of hitting the water. Nikita looks nearly new with a sharp bottom job and a full wax of hull and cabin. I have a handful of other projects to complete over the next couple of weeks as we wait out the remainder of hurricane season. Rae Ann has started both kids in home schooling with Isabelle in pre-school and Jake starting first grade. Both kids are having fun with the schooling.

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Hurricane Season

We arrived in Grenada 10 days ago and have been in a fast paced race to get ready for our haul out on July 16th and our flight to WA state the following day. In reality we gave ourselves plenty of time, we just did not realize how cool and fun Grenada was going to be. The island is beautiful, with mountainous country, white sand beaches and clear water. Friendly open people abound, ready to help as well as form friendships. We have saved all of our touring for when we return as we will have another 30 days or so before we can safely go north in the Caribbean again.

Many many cruisers, particularly those like us that are going to be on their boats either part or all of hurricane season, have chosen Grenada. As a result the cruising community is large and active. This has consumed much time, albeit with much fun had by all, with BBQ's, impromto beach parties, card games etc. It is also a cross roads as several cruisers currently here will move south and west thus we will not see them again. So .... many farewell parties.

Grenada has everything a cruiser needs with marine services abundant, many very protected anchorages and most importantly for this time of year is just enough south (12 degrees) to qualify as out of the box for most insurers during hurricane season and as well have a good track record of not being hit. Though when Grenada has been hit it has tended towards devastating. So we all cross our fingers.

We have also spent much time thinking about the new cruising season. The early part is easy, back up the Caribbean to pick off those islands we missed on the way down. Then what? Right now the South Pacific is tugging hard... will the Nikita crew have "deh Belle" to make the jump?

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