St. Martin to Guadeloupe

We stayed in St. Martin for three days, spent mostly recovering from the long motor sail from St. Thomas. We also caught up on home schooling and a couple of boat projects. St. Martin has numerous boat related services, about anything anyone would want, and also has a well protected lagoon that you enter via an opening bridge through a small channel. The downside of this is a very commercial atmosphere, with the assorted pollution, not to mention the airport with the flight path right over the anchorage. All said not one of our favorite spots, but if one is in need of a protected anchorage and or boat repairs, it would be hard to beat.

We now have a deadline, a haul out date of July 16th in Grenada with flights back to WA state on the 17th, so with this in mind we started to make some tracks. We have seen some amazing islands but unfortunately are just filling the list for things to do next year as we spend a night at each island and then push on south again.

We stopped on the northwest corner of St. Barts in a marine park, very dry area with nice snorkeling, beaches and hiking and a nice remote feeling after St. Martin. We then sailed to St. Kitts and Nevis, the islands being separated by only a narrow channel. The islands have huge mountains nearing 4000 feet, that plunge right to the ocean. There are not very many good anchorages unless conditions are settled, which fortunately they were. We anchored for the night on the north west coast of Nevis. Both islands are very lush as they get frequent rain storms from the mountains trapping moisture. We then pushed on to Guadeloupe, but not before passing Montserrat.

Montserrat was and remains a stunning island, but in 1997 the volcano erupted on the southern end burying the town of Plymouth as well as several residents. The volcano remains active. We sailed down the west coast going within a quarter mile. The north remains lush with beautiful houses then suddenly gives way to a barren brown landscape, with the town of Plymouth only visible as the roof line. As we passed sulfur was being vented providing a sharp smell for the crew. Jake wants to be the first people to step foot on the island (ignoring that people still live there) and hike to the top of the mountain to determine whether "it is a volcano or there are bad guys pouring lava down"

We are now anchored in Deshaies Guadeloupe, a picturesque fishing village that is quite possible the most beautiful anchorage we have seen.

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A Year of Cruising

We have been out one year, actually one year and a few days as I write this. We have always maintained that we will cruise as long as we are having fun and able to cope with the kids schooling, assessing it at each critical juncture. As we approach our first hurricane season in the tropics we feel very confident in continuing for at least another year, even talking more and more openly about the South Pacific. Which we find ironic given what I am going to say below.

The one thing that we significantly struggle with is passage making. Specifically, the upwind variety. Even our last trip from St. Thomas to St. Martin was a struggle, though only in 4 foot waves and light winds, we still slammed and banged around enough to make us uncomfortable. The point is that it has not been fun. While the comfortable runs are fondly remembered, they have been to far and few between. Usually involving protected waters (BVI's, Bahamas) or downwind (Maine and the US East coast) sailing angles. Clearly the upwind stuff has got us a little rattled, and sitting in St. Martin we have done nothing but this since Clarence Town Long Island in the Bahamas, nearly 750 miles. We hope that now running up and down the Island chain we will get more comfortable sailing angles, thus some relief and renewed confidence. It is hard to be a cruiser if you do not move your boat after all.

What we have really enjoyed, the Bahamas, with the spear fishing, snorkeling, great beaches and great friends. Maine, the Chesapeake and the Virgin Islands have been quite enjoyable as well, though the perfect mix yet remains the Bahamas, with the sense of remoteness, and self sufficiency the other places do not offer.

Raising the kids on the boat has been a challenge, but this is a grass is greener issue, as every parent says the same about young children. Rae Ann and Jake have done great with home schooling, making all of us very proud. We do wish there were more families out cruising allowing for additional playmates, maybe the coming cruising season will offer more opportunities.

So last night I asked myself, why keep doing it? Surprising myself with a rather strong response, was first I get to see my kids grow up and be a true partner with Rae Ann, something special to this lifestyle.

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BVI's

Ok so I have been a bit lax about posting. So this will be a catch up week. We are now in St. Martin having had a great week with my parents in St. Thomas. The grandkids/grandparents got along famously allowing Rae and I several nights of couple hood - so we slept alot.

Prior to my parents visit we spent 2 weeks in the BVI's. Visiting all but Aneganda, and enjoying each island for its differences, from the endless beach bars, great snorkeling, artist colonies and fabulous sailing. Yes you do share the BVI's with many charter boats, but we found that they were friendly (as most boaters anywhere are) and there to have a good time which is always a bit infectious, especially at a bar like Willie T's (I can say no more given Rae will read this and she was boat bound with a flu ridden Isabelle). Rae Ann made it a personal mission to not pick up a mooring while in the BVI's. As these are everywhere filling nearly every anchorage, made it no small feat. We succeeded, sometimes by being on the outside looking in with a rolly swell and others, we got a front row seat, tucking right up in front of everyone next to the beach. Our favorites were Jost Van Dyke for the snorkeling, North Sound for its calm anchorage, and Normans for Willie T's. The only downside, cost, clearly the market is made by the one week charter guest, pricing long term cruisers out of the market.

The sailing, given all the protection and short distances, was outstanding and real treat after so much motor sailing to windward over the previous couple of months. Though we did get a bit of retribution as we slogged down to St. Martin nose on the wind and seas again. We will be making fast tracks through the leewards and windwards on our way to Grenada for hurricane season, though we plan on coming back up island nest season we will spend our time as the islands deserve.

A Dinghy circle of life. The replacement dinghy we acquired in the Bahamas was sold to another cruiser when we got our new one in Puerto Rico, who with the similar designs used it temporarily and has since resold it. Well we have been carrying our old 5hp outboard engine looking for a buyer... and behold the buyer was no other than the same person who now owns the old Bahamas dinghy. I had the pleasure of reuniting the engine and dinghy last week. Really quite funny given the probabilities....

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New Photo Albums

Two new photo albums were added, Puerto Rico & Spanish Virgins, and the BVI's.

The Odd Stuff

Some odd occurrences as of late:

The Seven Dollar Black Hole - Back to St. Croix again. The first Seven Dollar Event was for a rental car, quoted at $38 and I paid $45 (not taxes or insurance, that was all after, just base rate here). The second Seven Dollar Event was during our drive through the rain forest, when we stopped at a highly recommended place for "the best mixed fruit smoothly you have ever had". When I went to pay I was asked for $14 dollars (Rae and I each had one). I replied "four dollars" and with a sly smile the attendant said "no $14 dollars".... well it was the best and only $7 smoothy I have had or will have. The third Seven Dollar Event occurred when I received a haircut. Working on local advice (guys hanging out at the bar) I inquired at the local internet shop and sure enough the proprietors sister would be in within the hour and she does cut hair. So I had a fairly decent hair cut sitting next to the computer terminals. This haircut cost me $20 dollars.... however the local bar guy told me be prepared to pay $13 dollars. I really thought nothing of it, maybe a tip, maybe inflation.

But when one puts the three events together you have to wonder about a conspiracy.

Update on the national parks permit for Buck Island - seems to still be in process.

Super Stingray Attacks Speeding Boat - While anchored at Marina Cay in the BVI's this week, I was enjoying a cup of coffee during the early morning, while reclining in the cockpit, not an uncommon event it should be noted. A local boat about 17 feet in length came flying through the anchorage - say 25 miles an hour - quite fast for the number of boats around and the potential, although a little early, for people swimming off their boats. Apparently the captain and crew were unaware of the patrolling Super Sting Ray, which leapt about three feet in the air just as the speeding boat went by landing on the boats windshield and bouncing off, seemingly unharmed. The boat came to a sudden halt as the captain and crew collect their wits and cleaned their shorts. They then proceeded to their destination at a much more reasonable pace.

Fighting Octopus - While spear fishing at Culebrita I came across a rarity, an Octopus fully out in the open on top of the coral bed moving about. Usually these guys, with the exception of nocturnal forays, stay holed up in a cave of some sort and one must be quite lucky to find one while snorkeling/diving during the day. Well I decided to have a go at him. First I touched him with my spear to see what his reaction would be; he grabbed on and started pulling. I yanked hard and got the spear away. But the Octopus stayed there eyeing me, daring me if you will. So I slinged the spear and took a shot, of course missing in my excitement. He moved into a nearby hole in the coral, but still exposed and still giving me the eye. Well my next shot was on the mark and brought about a ocean load of ink. I went to pull him out, thinking about what an interesting dinner he will make, when... I could not get the spear back. The Octopus really had a hold of the spear now. A battle of wills, endurance, breath holding ability, wits and ink occurred, with me losing on all counts. I did claim a tie in the end getting my spear back but no Octopus for dinner.

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New Photo Albums

Two new photo album links have been added on the right hand side: Turks & Caicos and second the Dominican Republic.

An Open Letter to St. Croix

The cruising guides suggest that St. Croix is seldom visited because it is so far off the beaten track of the rest of the virgins. This has some truth, 40 miles of good but rough sailing, but let me suggest some other issues. First the main anchorage in Christiansted has a mean roll that one cannot get away from. Now there is a solution to this; the inner harbor has enough room for a handful of dedicated transient moorings in among the local boats. This would require cleaning out some of the junk on the bottom and brining order to the current mooring/anchoring chaos that exists.

Second and at least 50% of the reason for going there was to visit Buck Island, a national marine park. We arrived smack dab in the middle of a bureaucratic special as they had just changed the process to acquire the necessary permit. We arrived on a Friday afternoon, dutifully inquired on Saturday, returned Monday as instructed, completed all necessary paper work including three different offices to visit. We were then told that a notice of their decision would be mailed to us in 4 days.... I returned on Tuesday just to make clear that we would not likely be at our U.S. mailing address, to which I was assured that we would receive it via email. As I sit here in beautiful Cane Garden Bay Tortolla I am still without my permit, long past 4 days, and unfortunately long past our visit to St. Croix.

Lastly, while not the fault of St. Croix, and not one easily remedied is that it was a difficult place to get around. As without anchorages one was required to move about the island via car. Too bad because the one day we took a rental car the stunning beaches, snorkeling and diving opportunities seemed to abound.

We are now in the BVI's along with the charter fleet, which now doubt is at an off season low. Just so they swarm about and provide some good entertainment, particularly during anchoring.

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